I originally wanted to create a boost converter from scratch to drive the LEDs, as the LEDs require about 34V to run a full brightness. It would have been a good learning experience to setup basic control for the switching and the circuit topology isn't that complex. However, since I really wanted to use these day to day and the power being delivered was around 50W, I decided to just go ahead with a boost converter chip.
I considered a few: the AL3353 looked nearly perfect for the job, as it offered current sensing and was designed specifically for LED boost applications. However, the switching frequency was rather low and a large inductor would have been needed. I looked a few others, and eventually settled on the LM3478. This chip was designed to be a general purpose constant voltage boost converter. I wanted to modify the feedback path to be constant current: a small current sense resistor with a current sense amplifier to reach the high feedback reference voltage of 1.26V:
Seems like a good idea at the time. Schematic could also be better formatted. |
The microcontroller would create an offset voltage that was added to the amplified current sense voltage so that the current could be regulated. I would quickly realize my implementation was flawed.
For the microcontroller (to control the brightness levels and regulate temperatures) I used the ATtiny1616. This was really nice to use as it was relatively cheap compared to older ATtinys, had a DAC (which I needed for the offset voltage), and had a one-wire programming/debug interface (woo!).
The LEDs I used were high CRI Cree LEDs: the CMA1825 series in 2700K and 5700K. I also ordered a few cheap 50W and 100W LEDs for testing.
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Light! |
Not high enough. |
I had some time today to take out my feedback path and just setup a voltage divider from the output to the feedback pin as intended, and the whine disappeared and the temperatures didn't rise much over room temperature.
Potentiometer from output to feedback pin. |
Light! Again! |
I bought a new heatsink and lens combo and tested it with the cheaper LEDs:
The yellow edge on the beam is a little gross and may just not use the lens reflector combo and use a larger diffuser.
7.21.2019 Update:
I bought a bowl from IKEA to act as a reflector and got rid of the lens to get a wider beam that was more even:
For some reason the board I was using developed a short across the input power terminals but I can't find where it is for now. I tested the input capacitor and that was okay. Will have to investigate more later. For now I just swapped over to one of the spare boards I had put together and flashed over the firmware:
Works very well!
Let there be light! |
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