Hetch Hetchy Loop: Yosemite Backpacking

Dates: May 15-17, 2025

Three days and two nights on this classic Yosemite loop around the Hetch Hetchy Valley. I originally didn't intend to have any plans until later into the summer, but I was invited to go on this trip by a coworker. I was originally hesitant on going due to a foot injury I was still recovering from (post-tibial tendonitis from some overuse over a month before), but it was feeling much better, so I chose to go. We went clockwise starting from the dam, with the first night at Lake Vernon and the second night at Rancheria Falls. The weather forecast was partly cloudy with a chance of rain on the last day, perfect weather for the trip. Mid-May was a great time for the trip: before all the mosquitos spawn, before the heat coming later in the summer (flashback to my trip last year in July where it was cooking), and just after most of the snow had melted.

Day 1: O'Shaughnessy Dam to Lake Vernon (10.5 miles, 3,280 ft elevation gain)

After driving from the Bay Area in the early morning, we started our hike around 10AM after meeting up with the others at the Oak Flat entrance and driving to the O'Shaughnessy Dam. We had a steady climb out of the valley; not too hot and not too exposed. Past the junction for Miguel Meadows we ran into a few small snow patches and muddy bits of trail but otherwise the trail was dry.

We got to Lake Vernon around 4:30PM and found a nice flat area next to the north side of the lake to set up camp.

Sierra newt in Lake Vernon. I saw at least six all nearby.

The water in Lake Vernon was freezing: colder than I think any other alpine lake I had been in before. I could only keep my feet in there for 20 seconds before it got rather painful. It was a nice ice bath for my feet though, keeping them ready for the next day.

Day 2: Lake Vernon to Rancheria Falls (10.5 miles, 1,340 ft elevation gain)

The second day started off with a climb to the highest point on our trip, going around Mt. Gibson, and then descending quickly to Tiltill Valley through a series of switchbacks.

Hiking away from Lake Vernon

The switchbacks into Tiltill Valley were relatively easy going, but there were a decent number of tree falls over the trail that we had to straddle over. Nothing too hard to go over but annoying. We had a quick lunch after the descent.

The most “fun” part of the day was wading through the meadow in Tiltill Valley. There was a ~100 meter stretch that was flooded with shin-deep water and mud. I went through barefoot holding my shoes and socks to keep them dry, and washed my feet off afterwards and dried them with a towel before putting my socks and shoes back on. Some others went through with their shoes still on but socks and insoles removed. It was a unique feeling on the feet; the grass/mud/water mix was soft on the feet, and some steps went in deeper than others and had a little suction feeling when lifting my foot back out to take the next step. Definitely not a place you want to fall into, or be here a month later when it becomes the ideal mosquito breeding ground.

The flooded Tiltill Valley.

From here it was quick going down a straight and then another set of switchbacks to Rancheria Falls.

We got to Rancheria Falls around 3PM, giving us ample time to explore the falls and relax. After setting up my tent I took a quick dip into the river to cool off and wash off a little grime. There was a nice sandy beach we could set up at and just relax. I took some time to do a painting of the falls, and then we had dinner there.

Quick watercolor painting on the beach.

Before sunset we did a scramble up the rocks along the side of the waterfall which let us climb up to the bridge over the Rancheria falls. We could get right next to the upper waterfalls and feel the spray of the water. We watched the sun set over the view of the falls and valley, and headed back along the trail to camp where we went to sleep. The mosquitoes were not that bad, and I left the trip with only about a dozen bites. 

Sunset over Rancheria Falls

Day 3: Rancheria Falls back to O'Shaughnessy Dam (7 miles, 1000 ft elevation gain)

The rain on the last day never materialized; it became completely overcast for an hour or so as we headed out from camp but then cleared up to blue skies again. We checked out a side detour, which let us get really close up to the lower part of the falls and really appreciate the force of the roaring water.

The rest of the hike was along the Hetch Hetchy reservoir, where we passed many other day hikers and backpackers heading to Rancheria Falls or the closer Wapama Falls. I’ve never been to Wapama Falls before and it’s similar to the experience of Vernal Falls and Mist Trail in the main valley. The spray of the water was refreshing with the sun beating down on us on the way back to the dam.

Thanks again to Richard, Steve, James, and Grant for the company on this trip and elevating my backpacking experience. It was great to hear about all their trips and experiences, and I’m excited to get out on my next trip this year.